The scent of sun-warmed citrus groves and the distant murmur of the sea are the first sensations to greet you upon stepping onto Capri. It is a sensory prelude to an island whose sheer, almost theatrical beauty has captivated emperors, poets, and travellers for millennia. Many are content with this dazzling surface, yet to truly know Capri, one must venture deeper.
The island is not merely a destination for leisure; it is a cultural palimpsest, where layers of history, art, and nature intertwine. To decipher it requires a slower pace, a willingness to stray from the bustling Piazzetta and listen for the whispers of its ancient past, for the echoes of the famed exiles who found both solace and inspiration upon its shores.
The Island of Two Halves
Capri exists in a fascinating duality, embodied by its two distinct municipalities. Capri town is the island's polished, cosmopolitan heart. Its famous Piazzetta is the world’s drawing-room, an open-air stage for seeing and being seen over coffee. From here, labyrinthine lanes lead to the high-fashion boutiques of Via Camerelle and to breath-taking vistas.
A short walk away, the Gardens of Augustus offer a spectacular vantage point over the Faraglioni sea stacks and the winding path of Via Krupp, itself a masterpiece of road engineering. As evening falls, the ritual of the 'passeggiata' brings a smart, effortless elegance to the town centre. This is the Capri of la dolce vita, vibrant and alluring.
Anacapri, by contrast, represents the island's quieter, more soulful retreat. Situated at a higher elevation, it is a haven of peace, removed from the thrum of the port. Here, rhythms are slower, and the atmosphere is that of a traditional Mediterranean village, complete with artisan workshops where skilled hands still craft bespoke sandals and distil perfumes from local flora.
A Tapestry of History and Art
Anacapri is home to Villa San Michele, the dream-like home and museum created by the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe. Built on the ruins of an ancient chapel, the villa is a place of profound beauty, a composition of classical artefacts and lush gardens overlooking the Bay of Naples. It stands as a testament to one man's devotion to the island.
My house shall be open for the sun and the wind and the voices of the sea - like a Greek temple - and light, light, light everywhere!
For an even deeper immersion into antiquity, one must ascend to Villa Jovis, the grandest of the twelve villas built on the island by the Emperor Tiberius. Its sprawling ruins, perched on a cliff edge, evoke the scale and seclusion of Roman imperial power whilst commanding a view that sweeps across the entire gulf.
From nearby, the chairlift to Monte Solaro provides a silent, meditative ascent to the island's highest point. From the summit, the 360-degree panorama is an almost spiritual experience, allowing one to grasp Capri's unique geography and its strategic place in the Mediterranean world.
Embracing the Azure Embrace
No visit to Capri is truly complete without taking to the water. The Blue Grotto, or Grotta Azzurra, is world-famous for its ethereal ultraviolet light, and whilst a remarkable sight, it is best visited at less popular times to avoid the inevitable queues. The real luxury, however, is to charter a private 'gozzo'-a traditional wooden boat-for a circumnavigation of the island.
A boat tour reveals hidden sea caves like the White Grotto and Green Grotto and allows you to sail through the arch of the Faraglioni, the silent guardians of the island. To drop anchor in a secluded cove for a swim in the crystalline water, far from any crowd, is to create a memory that endures.
This maritime exploration also showcases the Arco Naturale, a majestic rock formation sculpted by the elements, and the Punta Carena lighthouse, one of Italy's oldest, which paints the sky in fiery hues at sunset. It is from the sea that Capri’s wild, monumental character is best understood.
Counsel for the Cultivated Traveller
The Rhythm of the Seasons
To experience Capri in its finest light, the ideal times to visit are late spring (April to early June) and early autumn (September and October). The climate is pleasant, the flora is at its most verdant, and the island is less congested than during the peak months of July and August, allowing for a more intimate and authentic encounter.
Navigating with Grace
Capri is reached by hydrofoil or ferry from Naples or Sorrento. On the island, the funicular provides a swift connection from the Marina Grande to Capri town.
To travel between Capri and Anacapri, the small local buses are efficient, while the famous open-top taxis offer scenic, if pricier, journeys. The very best way to discover the island’s secrets, however, is on foot, exploring its network of ancient paths and stairways.
Prudence and Planning
For a seamless stay, booking accommodation well in advance is essential, particularly for rooms with a coveted sea view. The most sought-after restaurants, especially for dinner, and private boat tours also require prior reservation. We recommend a stay of at least three to four nights to explore both halves of the island without feeling rushed.
Regarding island etiquette, a certain understated elegance is appreciated. While daytime and beach attire is casual, it is customary to dress smartly for the evening passeggiata and for dinner in town. This is a simple sign of respect for the island's singular atmosphere.
The Taste of the Sun
Capri's cuisine is a celebration of simplicity and superlative ingredients. One cannot leave without trying Ravioli Capresi, filled with local caciotta cheese and marjoram, or the Torta Caprese, a divine flourless chocolate and almond cake. The freshest seafood and the island's famously fragrant lemons, used to make excellent limoncello, are staples of the local table.
Seek out the family-run trattorias, particularly in and around Anacapri, for the most genuine flavours, often served in hidden gardens under flowering pergolas. It is here that one finds the warmest hospitality and the true taste of the Mediterranean.
Capri is an island that rewards a slow, considered approach. Beyond its immediate splendour, it offers an unexpected cultural depth and a serenity that reveals itself only to those who take the time to look. It is a place that, once truly understood, is never forgotten.
Your Tailored Journey
To explore the wonders of Capri in greater detail and receive personalised advice, we invite you to contact the Covellea concierge. Our in-depth knowledge of the destination is at your service to help craft an experience that perfectly matches your vision.